Enchanted Rock bouldering guide

Beta and Topos donated by John Shannon, John Myrick, and Scott Steiner on 10.22.00 at the Granite Gripper.

* - denotes quality.

! - denotes danger.

SD - sit down start

Boulder problems are grouped by area. Topos are shown below where available.

Campside Boulders

  • Frostbite (V2+) SD ***! -- Roof Jams to finger crack and face lock-offs.
  • Boyscout Simulator (V1) -- flared overhung crack left of frostbite.
  • Skinner Nails (V3+) *** -- thin seem to a rotten finish.
  • Double Arete (V5) SD ** -- 50 feet left of skinner nails on the shaded narow north face.
  • Flip flop (V0) * -- a nice first crack west of skinner nails.
  • Of Unknown Origins (V0-) -- Hand Jam Crack. loose finish with some vegitation
  • Packman playing Dice (V0) SD *** -- northwest of campsite 40, south facing arete to a loose top out.

Kingdom of Zilch Area

Split Rock Boulders

  • Real Boat (V1) *** -- lie back west corner of uphill boulder - some loose crystals.
  • The seam of Death (V3) ***! -- shallow dihedral on north face of lower boulder.
  • West corner (V3) *! -- southern face of the uphill boulder.
  • Rooster Tail (V4) -- Left Side of the lower boulder.

Kindom of Zilch Central area.

  • Wayne's West Face (V1) -- 50 feet downhill and west from heat stroke.
  • Southwest Arete (V1) -- to the right of waynes west face.
  • Louie (V3) SD * -- southern end of the Zanzibar Boulder traverses up the left arete.
  • Regie (V3) SD * -- Traverses the right arete.
  • Zanzibar (V2) SD *** -- overhanging seam, traverse and mantle.
  • Innominate (V1) ! -- underclinging flake or reach deep for good jams.
  • Snake Farm -- Roof jams. pull into sequence and top out.
  • Hemoboy Strikes again (V0) * -- North side of the snake farm alley. This crystal face moves to loose finish.
  • Fist Crack (VB) ** -- West and uphill from Tony Ya's project is a sustained fist crack to a good top out.
  • Sander's Traverse (V0 - V2) * -- classic traverse problems. many variations.
  • Drop out (V0+) ***! -- left facing dihedral at the end of the zilch cave.
  • Null and Void (V0) * -- Rt side of the new face of zilch boulder.
  • Zilchlessness (V0-) * -- left of null and void, fun slab with good top out.
  • Grodie Crack (V0-) -- finger crack to rotten finish.
  • Way below zero (V2) -- northwest face of zilch boulder starts behind tree.
  • Forbidden Fruit (V1) ! -- climbs the east face of grodie crack.
  • Fatman in Paradise (V2) **! --classic face / double arete.
  • Stress Fracture (V1) SD ** -- Located on the south facing block north of zilchlessness. fine fist crack to off width.
  • Skull Fracture (V1+) SD **! -- undercling short roof to good fist jams.
  • Random Crack (V0-) * -- located in the jumbled boulders North East of zilchlessness and overlooking the summit trail. short with good hand jams.

Kingdom of Zilch - North Boulders.

  • Lewis Roof (V4) SD -- fist jam roof pulls out onto a thin finger face.
  • Spiderman (V3) ***! -- Follow left leaning finger crack to good top-out.

Little Foot Boulders

  • Salethe Cling (V2) *** -- Undercling Flake while doing a crystal dance to possitive features.
  • Scree Boulders (V0) ** -- Southeast face of prominant boulder - diminishing edges to a good finish - stay left of seam.

Echo Canyon Boulders

  • Lunch Rock Direct (V1) ***! -- excellent slab route.
  • Kara's line (V1) SD -- Found on the west face of the northenmost lunch rock grouping. thin crystals lead up then mantel out left.
  • Mount ann (V0-V2) ** -- Many variations on the steep face adjacent to lunch rock.
  • Fluff Service (V1) ** -- Uphill from Mount Ann the route traverses the eastern lip of the downhill boulder. Start low and mantel out.
  • Practice Slab (V0 - V1+) ***! -- many good lines to learn friction.
  • Hard Hands (V2) ***! -- this nice finger crack is a must do.
  • Beginner's Bitch (V0) ** -- usually done as a toprope route.
  • Army Route (V1) ***! -- thin power move to a good hold and nice jams to the top.
  • Navy Route (V0) **! -- Follow the fist crack up and right to a good hold.
  • SuperBird (V4) SD -- Found on the inner side of smorgasborg ramp.
  • Cruisin for a Bruisin (V6) SD ** -- steep crack under jack knife.

Cave Crack Boulders

  • Red Point Edge (V2) ** -- Prominant Arete in the northwest corner of the cave. Sharp Crystals to good finish.
  • Hangatang (V2) * -- Good hand jams lead up. no top out
  • Tomb stone lady with horns (V2+) *** -- pale east facing boulder. sharp crimps to good top out.

Dairy Farm Boulder

  • Mild Cheddar (V2) -- left leaning crack system, start as low as possible down and left by a tree, top out up and left.
  • Layback 101 (V0) -- around the corner from mild cheddar. right leaning layback.
  • Oops I missed the bucket (V1) -- right of the layback, start on the large knob and move straight up.
  • no name (V0-) -- slab right of Oops.
  • no name (V0-) -- crack to the right of previous.
  • no name (V0-) -- slab between cracks #5 and 7.
  • no name (V0-) -- left leaning crack
  • no name (V0-) -- slab.
  • Lactose Intolerant (V4) SD -- start low on the big right arching flake, move right with underclings and bad feet to the prow and top out.
  • High on the food chain (V0) -- start right of the prow and reach up and right for the top.
  • Longhorn Flake (V2) -- left facing shallow corner.
  • Cow Tipping (V0) -- around and right back towards the frog Pond boulder, start on horizontal with grass growing out of it and move straight up.
  • Feed Trough Traverse (V3) -- start on cow tipping and move right all the way around the corner to the offwidth.
  • Udderly Fantastic (V2) *** -- 20 ft right of cow tipping, start right of left leaning crack and dyno or finesse straight up to a good knob.
  • Milk Mustache (V2) -- Jump start mantle on the prow right of utterly.
  • Milk Money (V0) -- the corner right of milk mustache.
  • Cow Chips (V0) -- slab right of the corner.

Romb Boulder - approximately 100 yrds north / uphill & slightly right of the dairy farm.

  • Romatron (V5) ! -- a left facing shallow corner on the northeast face of this rock, approx. 25 ft. tall.

The Dairy Farm is located on the front side of the main dome. From the summit trail, take the Turkey Pass trail towards turkey peak. Just before the trail heads uphill there is a group of boulders on the left side (if facing turkey peak). The boulder closest to the trail is the frog pond boulder.

Frog Pond Boulder

  • Bull knose (V1) -- left edge of the west side of the boulder.
  • Dairy Dog (V0) -- goes up the slab between bull knose and heavy cream.
  • Heavy Cream (V4) SD ** -- sit down start on the right side of the slab, move up and right to the blunt arete.
  • Schamntle Fest (V4) *** -- start just right of the blunt arete with a right hand slope, move straight up.
  • Goat Cheese (V5/6?) ** -- to the right of schmantle fest. high start on bad crimps, up through bady slopes and crimps.
  • project -- just right of Goat Cheese just left of arete jump to black slopers and try to top out.
  • Frogatron Direct (V5) *! -- around the orange arete from Goat Cheese start in the middle of the face on edges go strainght up and left.
  • Frogatron right (V4) * -- same as the direct only top out to the right.
  • Milk Jugs (V2+) SD ** -- Sit down start on the big jugs to the right of frogagtron.

Lactose Boulder - behind and right of the frog pond.

  • Milk Belly (V1) -- the chimney on the left side of the boulder.
  • Borden Arete (V1) -- the arete which forms the right side of the chimney.
  • skim (V1+) -- shallow corner to the right of the arete.
  • Half and Half (V3) SD -- start on the arete staying low move past the coner and top out on the rib.
  • milk bone (V1+) -- ascend the rib roght of the corner.
  • Vitamin Fortified (V4) SD -- move right and go up shallow right facing corner.
  • Got Milk (V4) -- bold arete to the right of Vitamin.
  • Cottage Cheese Face (V1) -- start off small boulders onto a short verticle face with nice crystals.
  • The Prow (V1+) -- around and right from #8 past a tree there is an obvious prow, jump up and mantle out.
  • Ice cream Corner (V2) -- corner to the right of the prow.
  • Ice Cream Corner Sit Down (V3+) SD -- start on a big flake and move left into the corner.

Blue Bell Boulder

  • Blue Bell Arete (V4) *** -- the blunt arete to the right of ice cream. start on the left side of the arete.
  • ice cream sandwich (V0) * -- corner to the right of blue bell.

Creekside Boulder - about 50 yrds left of the dairy farm along the base of the dome.

  • I dismember Momma (V3) -- hidden super overhanging undercling problem. start low and left & exit right.

South Dome Wash Area

  • Cactus Housing Authority (V3) SD ! -- right diagonal crack.
  • Karma to Burn var. 1 (V6) -- start standing and dyno.
  • Karma to Burn var.2 (project) SD -- sit down to karma to burn.
  • Cross-Hatched (V2-V3) -- Lone boulder to the right & below "Karma"

Bush Crack Boulders

Left Boulder

  • Quit dragging your ass! (V4) ! -- start in the hole next to the tree traverse left and then lie-back to the top.

Right boulder

  • Far left mantle (V1-V2) -- mantle with (V1) or without feet (V2).
  • Center (V0) -- no description
  • Right (V2+) -- get right foot on the big ledge and then do the one finger mantle.

Little Feet Area

  • Little Feet (V1) ! -- climb the classic crack without ropes.

Graveyard Area

Foxhole Boulder

  • Foxhole (V4) SD *** -- begin underclinging or jamming crack - a classic!
  • skeletons in the closet old bones (V3) -- stop when the crack ends at the roof.
  • skeletons in the closet center(V5) ! -- pull through the roof and top out.
  • skeletons in the closet Rt. foot trav.(V5) ! -- pull through the roof and top out.
  • skeletons in the closet Rt. hand trav.(V6) ! -- pull through the roof and top out.
  • Caylor - Steiner Mantle (V2) -- no description

Jaws Boulder

  • Y ask Y? left finish (V2) ! -- don't fall into the jaws
  • Y ask Y? right finish (V2) ! -- don't fall into the jaws
  • Up from the depths (V2) ! ** -- classic dihedral. careful on the opening holds.

Cubes Area

  • rope eater (sans rope) (V3) !! -- fun roof crack to dihedral - just uphill from bush crack.

cubes boulders

  • Cubes Crack (V0) **-- climb beautiful dihedral crack to top out
  • Lowball (V2) ** -- fun low traverse & dyno or mantle.
  • H-eyeball (V5) ** -- excellent steep edges to a dyno.
  • Cube scouts (V2) -- awkward but fun overhanging crack.

cubes wall.

  • various short cracks (V0-V2) -- many fun little routes with awkward moves.

please send new submissions with accurate descriptions of where the problem starts and where it finishes (and which problems it's between) here.

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